Front Wheel Camber                     

Whenever the suspension struts are disturbed, the wheel camber and tracking 

should be checked and adjusted where necessary. 

For camber book figure quotes -0.9 to -1.1deg, which equates to about 7.5 - 9mm 

gap at the top of wheel rim to plumb spirit level as in photo below.

You should be on a flat and level surface and have the rear suspension at 

normal ride height, also the front seats should be weighted with 75kg each.

 

The camber should always be adjusted first because any movement here will 

also affect the tracking, wheel tracking differences do not affect camber.

You can set the camber by loosening the top pinch bolt (removal not necessary as in pic) 

and bottom bolt and then pulling from the top of the disc as far as it will go. 

This pulls the axle forging out to its stop in the slotted upper hole of the strut (ringed) 

and normally this is about right for LC camber. There seems to be no over adjustment 

because the lower swivel mount plates were extended out to increase the front wheel base.

 

 

The reason I removed the bolt completely was to be able to file the top slotted 

hole in the strut bracket a little longer, about 0.5 - 1.0mm was enough to achieve 

8mm camber.

 

 

 

A problem that has been reported by a few owners was the camber setting slipping 

back which will destroy perfect tyres in no time. To prevent this I installed a aluminium 

wedge between the axle forging and strut leg body....btw thanks Ian M for that thought 

couple years ago........

I would have liked to have them made from a solid aluminium billet of approx dimensions 

50mm long, 20mm wide, taper from about 4mm to 5mm (5mm at the curved end), in the 

event I used 2 bits 3mm thick and seam welded the sides and formed over at one end so 

it could be removed easily.

 

 

 

Each side required a slightly differing thickness, about 0.5mm different overall, and a 

taper of about 0.75-1.00mm, so they were hand filed until they would just about fit in with 

a few taps of a hammer.

To secure the wedge in place I drilled and tapped a M5 threaded hole into the side 

of the strut mount plate and a small way into the side of the wedge. A socket headed 

M5 screw then keeps it from ever falling out.

Tracking was next, I simply measured the distance between the inside wheel rims at 3 and

9 o'clock positions, here I am looking for 0.0 - 1.0mm toe in, ie small at front, bigger at rear,

the movement of the camber had pushed the tracking about 3-4mm out of alignment.

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